Rivers of people took over downtown Cali: the magic of the Green Zone at COP16

A 63-year-old woman takes her teenage grandson by the hand as she walks through one of the entrances to the Green Zone. She stops in front of the giant inírida flower that gave life to the COP16 logo, a multicolored star that sits at the beginning of the iconic Ortiz Bridge. "This reminds me of a gift my husband gave me when we climbed Mavecure in Guainía," the woman says, sobbing. The 16-year-old asks her about the story. She replies that it changed her life.

The image is just one of many left in downtown Cali over the past week. Rivers of people have ed through the vast space of the Biodiversity Summit, set aside for people to express themselves and understand what is being discussed in the city. In total, at least 40,000 people ed through, according to organizers. This huge, colorful monument is one of the imposing forms that greet Cali's residents and tourists, and marks the beginning of a surprising route.

"This is a free space," exclaims the lady, watching her grandson, who has come from Pasto to promote the Black and White Carnival.

In this place there have been different types of demonstrations, understood as a way for people to express themselves. Some, for example, demanded to stop the initiative to build a military base on the island of Gorgona, others promoted education with artificial intelligence, and others showed how they recycle in their communities.

Along the route, vendors of all kinds will be present, from informal sellers of sugar cane juice, viche and fruit to green businesses set up in stands that resemble small indigenous houses. The coffee made of reusable materials is notorious. And every fifty meters there is a sound that sets the rhythm of the flow of people.

"Watch how I move," says the young man as he sees his reflection on a screen about ten meters long, guarded by plants of various sizes. With a camera, people come closer and can see his silhouette.

This is one of the spaces that have become a mandatory stop. During the day, images are projected with the voice that resembles the torture of Mother Nature. "I am the one who gives them water," he says.

Above all, sounds and music have become one of the main arteries. It is common to hear drummers and batucadas announcing the comparsas that will accompany the day. At the same time, next to the Boulevard Café, where the people of Cali gather every Friday to dance salsa, the lyrics of Joe Arroyo, Grupo Niche and Héctor Lavoe can be heard on a loop that never stops.

From here, 400 metres to the west, the imposing Farallones stage opens up. This has been the preferred stage for the musical shows and keynote speeches that begin every night at seven o'clock. It was here that President Gustavo Petro gave his opening speech, which ended with the lights out. The government said it was for "security reasons".

"I saw them by the Alberto Galindo Sports Unit two years ago," says the woman, taking out her mobile phone to record the group Semblanzas del Río Guapi. The Colombian Pacific, with its chirimías and chonta marimbas, was the protagonist. "How that marimba was ringing" was sung for two days, as if it were one of the great white handkerchief nights that take place every year. Foreign artists have also performed, such as Swedish-born Jon Henrik Fjällgren.

This place breathes culture. On Monday alone, for example, there were at least twenty performers who showed us gatherings, puppets, theatre and even typical dances.

-How long will it take? asks a young man to an indigenous woman sitting on a stone in front of the so-called "Amazon maloca".

This is a space set aside by Amazonian communities to reflect and present their ideas.

-It can take up to three months to make a necklace," she replies.

The Minister of the Environment, Susana Muhamad, and the Governor of the Valle del Cauca, Dilian Francisca Toro, met with indigenous people there. The site even became a meeting place for the Minga of Cauca.

It also became a platform for the country's political leaders to make announcements. The municipal and departmental cabinets were seen in the midst of the excitement. Several governors even met with ers-by.

On Wednesday, Mayor Alejandro Eder held a meeting to welcome visitors to the city. "We are going to move Cali and Colombia forward. I invite you not to polarise," he said. The meeting took place in the Coltabaco building, which reopened its doors before the start of the summit after being restored. The historic landmark has been transformed into a space for crafts, cocktails and social and academic gatherings.

"Grandma, I want to try these worms," says the teenager. "They're not for eating, they're for other animals," she replied. You are in charge of a place that promotes insects as a source of protein as a sustainable alternative.

The component that stands out most is that of green business and the bets being made by organisations and companies of all sizes. A drinks company has created a space to talk about the care of páramos and the history of the Andean condor. Another, like the Latin American Development Bank (CAF), has created an immersive experience. Smaller venues have even managed to develop low-impact solutions, either to generate energy or to replace polluting practices.

"It is good to see people together," says the woman. Every sunset in the Zona Verde is magical. It is a journey into the heart of a culture that transcends the local. Taking a cue from Gabo, this could be the almost literal definition of a timeless Macondian moment and a celebration of togetherness.

DAVID ALEJANDRO LÓPEZ BERMÚDEZ

Special envoy of EL TIEMPO - Cali

In social media: @lopez03david